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We repair all models and brands of heating units or furnaces in Houston and the surrounding cities regardless of the age of the heating units or furnaces. If you have a noisy heating unit or furnace or the heating unit or furnace is not producing hot air or for any other problems with your heating unit or furnace, we are ready to help. Just call our local number and let us do the rest in order to bring your heating unit or furnace back to normal working condition. You can reach us 24/7 at our local number for same-day heating unit or furnace repairs in Houston.
Please Note: We Do Not Sell Parts
If you prefer, you can contact us for Houston heating unit or furnace repair service via email. Just provide a brief explanation of your heating unit or furnace problem along with your name and contact information, and as soon as we receive your note, we will contact you with the solution for your heating unit or furnace issue.
We repair all heating unit or furnace models and brands in Houston:
Carrier heating units
Airtemp heating units
Lennox heating units
Caloric heating units
Ruud heating units
Bryant heating units
|GE heating units
Heil heating units
and more view all brands
Our heating unit or furnace repair service areas include all of Houston and the surrounding cities:
Clear Lake City
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Caution: Homeowners should not get involved any heating unit or furnace repairs on their own, unless they are professionally trained and experienced in heating unit or furnace repairs. Repairing gas, electrical and mechanical heating unit or furnace issues that you are not familiar with can be very dangerous and costly. The information posted on our website is only for educational purposes, in order to help you become more familiar with your heating unit or furnace, while also learning how to use them in the most efficient and cost effective way. For professional help on your heating unit or furnace repair service needs in Houston, call us at our local number:
Testing the heater power supply
1. Turn off power to the water heater and remove both thermostat access panels. Pull the insulation away from the thermostats: you may have to cut it with a serrated kitchen knife, but save it to reuse. Clip a jump wire to each probe of a voltage tester the tape the joined clips and probes together. Clip the other ends of the jump wires onto the top terminals of the high-temperature cutoff: the tester should not light. Turn on the power. (Important: Do not touch the instruments or heater. If the tester does not glow, call an electrician.
2 Testing the lower thermostat With the power disconnected, attach a continuity tester to the thermostat terminals. If the tester does not light, replace the thermostat.
3 Testing thermostat heat response With the power disconnected remove both thermostats connect a continuity tester to the terminals on the rig ht of the upper thermostat and hold it over a candle. After no more than 15 seconds you should hear a click, and the tester should light. (Caution: Remove the candle quickly; excess heat causes damage. Repeat the test on the lower thermostat the tester should now light at first, and go out at the click. If either thermostat behaves differently, replace it.
Maintenance and Calibration
Cleaning an open-contact thermostat
The points of an open-contact thermostat should be cleaned at the start of each heating season. The first step in the procedure is to loosen the body screw at the bottom of the thermostat. Then pull the thermostat cover toward you and lift it upward to remove it. Now lightly blow through the contact points, standing far enough away so that you will not deposit vapor from your breath on them. Then rub remaining dirt off the contact surfaces by sliding paper between them a crisp dollar bill or an index card. Do not use sandpaper: its abrasiveness will wear down the contacts. Replace the cover and tighten the body screw.
1 Replacing an old thermostat
Shut off power to the burner. Take off the thermostat cover. Remove the thermostat body by unfastening its mounting screws. The back plate and wiring to the burner will be exposed. Commonly, there are terminals labeled “R”, "W" and "B" for red, white and blue wires to the burner.
2 Preparing the wiring
Detach the wires and tape them temporarily to the wall. Unscrew the back plate. Cover the red wire's end with electrical tape, since you will not need it in wiring the new thermostat. Modern heating thermostats make use of only two wires.
3 Mounting the new thermostat
Mount the new back plate with the upper mounting screw. Attach the white and blue wires. Color coding can be ignored. Use a level to get the back plate cross lines exactly vertical and horizontal. Put in the lower mounting screw mount the body tightens the contact screws and snaps on the cover.
4 Calibrating a thermostat
Before calibration the thermostat's internal temperature must be stabilized: the thermostat should be in the off position at least 10 minutes with no heat source nearby. Then set the temperature-selector dial at the room temperature. Remove the cover.
Hold the dial shaft with a wrench to make sure the shaft does not rotate. With a screwdriver, turn the calibration shaft counterclockwise until the lever arm touches the stop. Continue to turn the shaft counterclockwise until the magnet remains away from the glass enclosure when the screwdriver pressure is released. Setting the snap-action point Slowly turn the calibration shaft clockwise until the magnet snaps against the glass enclosure. The thermostat now is calibrated and, in operation the magnet will snap against the glass to close the contacts at the set temperature replace the cover
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